The Journey so far.....


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September 4th

B - reporting

The skies were clear last night, with absolutely no light pollution. The milky way was absolutely beautiful.

G felt quite ill this morning with a cold. We were up early, before sunrise, which was heralded by hundreds of chirping birds. We had just enough gas in our stove to make coffee, ate some yoghurt and headed south.

We found a gas station and put 10 litres in our jerry can, despite rumours that having plastic jerry cans are illegal here. There was a lovely pale orange dog fast asleep in the gas station. We've noticed loads of dogs here, quite different to the german shepherd-esque Mongolian dogs. Kazakhstani dogs (at least the ones we've seen herding) are more like greyhounds, lean with long legs and quite feathery tails. I've seen similar in medieval tapestries.

We stopped at a transport cafe and had tea, black tea as I got 'with' and 'without' mixed up! The countryside was initially really flat and dry, but became hillier and after topping one rise we had a magnificent view of enormous snow-capped mountains. The Tan Shien range, possibly? I have heard of them, as there is a beer named after them!

The valleys are green, with lots of agriculture in fertile areas, and tiny towns with tree-lined streets. The houses here are mud, or brick, many with small gardens bursting with brightly coloured flowers. Cows wonder the streets, as in Siberia.

As G was feeling so ill we decided to find a hotel in Taldykorgan for the night. It is quite a large town, with a military base just outside it, with rows and rows of bunkers, blast doors closed. And a newer-looking base close  by, with heli pads and lots of soldiers.

After getting only slightly lost we found the Hotel Suly Tor (recommended in Lonely Planet) and were shown a room - their cheapest room was fantastic! We took it immediately. Hot shower (without a toilet in it), and a fridge, and kettle, and TV with CNN!!!! We became overexcited at watching English language news, and were even delighted to see that ars*hole Piers Morgan.

We went out for beer and shashlik for dinner, and wondered back in the warm dusk, past a courtyard with DJs playing dance mixes of Katy Perry, to which small children and old grannies were happily dancing.

Random Statue by road!

I know i don't look like it but i'm enjoying my tea!

At this transport cafe.

Pints here come with straws!

Cauliflower battered and deep fried yum!



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