The Journey so far.....


View RTW Mk2 in a larger map
Showing posts with label Tajikistan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tajikistan. Show all posts

September 30th

B - reporting

Border Day! The infamous Uzbek border...we were nervous, as the Uzbeks are very strict about importing prescription drugs, and G has a 4-month supply.

We set off about 10, with Ned and Morgan squashed into the back. It was a hot, hazy day, the nearby mountains invisilbe, when we arrived at the border post. We left N & M to walk through, and I was immediately separated from G and told to join the 'women line'. Exiting Tajikistan was straightforward, after filling out numerous forms. We then drove to the Uzbek border, which was closed for lunch.

After waiting in the baking sunlight for about half an hour, I joined a huge milling queue and after lots of smiling with gold-teethed old ladies in the 'women line' (G had already made it inside) an official came out and called for 'G's woman'...I did not comment. We then filled in more forms, in duplicate, and had our bags searched by Customs. 'Did you buy heroin in Tajikistan?' 'No.'

G had to do a blood test in front of the customs men, and explain exactly what each of his tablets do. More and more of our possessions were taken out of the truck and lined up on the ground to be sniffed by the drug dog. But G ws patient, and polite, and we were eventually cleared. We picked up Ned and Morgan and headed for Bukhara.

We stopped for the night at a small town with a surprisingly easy to find hotel (right on the highway!) and checked in. For some reason one pays per person, not per room, so N and M each paid 50,000som for a room each, and G and I had to pay 100,000som for an identical room. Perhaps the extra person uses up the TV?

We all headed into town for food and beer to an open-air traditional cafe (where you sit cross-legged on raised benches) where we felt like zoo animals, but in a very friendly zoo.

Start.

End.


September 29th

G – Reporting

With all our errands sorted and our Uzbek visa obtained we had a free day to check out Dushanbe despite being told by our fellow guests that we would be back by lunch time as there was “nothing to see” we were eager to checking out what almost every guide book described as “The prettiest Capital in the Stans”

Heading down the main street it was indeed pretty with lots of trees but not any nicer than Almaty or Bishkek and with notably less shops and places to eat and drink.

Also this was by far the most religious/traditional place we had been with almost all the women wearing head scarves and very colorful but sack like dress that went from neck to ankle.

We checked out various statues and the main monument in town that got me told of by a cop as I had the audacity to attempt to use the steps in front of it! and that was about it we had decided not to go to the museums as we had had more than our fill of ex-soviet museums and so had shortened our sightseeing by a considerable amount - the crowd at the hostel were right!

So after checking out the old soviet department store that all these capitals had which at least was wonderfully eclectic we withdrew to the one café in town with a patio for coffee and lunch surrounded by NGO workers and Ex-pats!

But the day ended on a highlight with dinner at of all things in central Asia an Ecuadorian restaurant and it was great!

Nice weather :-)

??????

Steps where i got told off by a policeman!

September 28th

B - reporting

Visa Day! We assembled our paperwork, photos and dollars, and headed to the Uzbek embassy. After being let in by the guard, who wrote our details in a ledger in his tiny hut, with rumpled bed and a large gun propped in the corner, we were allowed in.

We joined a queue, and after everyone had pushed past us eventually handed our paperwork over then waited...and waited...and finally were given our passports with the shiny new 30 day visa!! Yay! We celebrated with coffee, scones & jam from a nearby cafe then spent the rest of today sorting out the car and doing laundry.

Scones!

good food and real coffee

The aftermath of dinner




September 27th

G – Reporting

So I think because of the stressful camping location we were on the road at 6:30 by 7 we had done 2 checkpoints one police and one army strangely 100m apart?

[conversation between B and a young army man, while G was in the office:
YAM: hello
B: hello
YAM: I love you
B: no, no you don’t
YAM: goodbye]

The rest of the day was thankfully an easy drive to Dushanbe with the GPS flawlessly getting us to the Hostel which had a room for us, plus wifi and clean clean bathrooms (I’m easily pleased these days!)

So we pulled up our email and found our Uzbek Letter of Invitation had arrived, so quickly stuck it on a USB drive along with the application form and headed into town to get it printed, that done we scoped out the Uzbek embassy location and went back to the hostel, over a few beers we got to meet our fellow guests which included a couple of very affable aussie guys who along with a French guy joined us for dinner at a local chinese restaurant - a good day.

Dangerous load! - Yes there is no red flag on the end of the wood!

Checking underneath to make sure nothing is falling off.

Dushanbe's Reservoir.

September 26th

B - reporting

Had a delicious fried egg breakfast in the hotel, then set off. Small children continued to excitedly shout 'hello' as we passed.

We reached the end of the Whakam valley, and turned north towards Dushanbe. We had left the Pamirs, which felt very strange in a sort of  'end of holiday' feeling, though we still have thousands of kilometers to go...we had been talking about the Pamir Highway for years, and now it was behind us.

The road was pretty good as far as the final police checkpoint, then deteriorated badly. At one point it was just a single lane rocky track under an extremely unstable slope, rocks tumbling down as we drove past. As the sun sank out of sight we decided to stop for the night. G asked a woman in a village if there was a hotel, but she fell about laughing so we decided to camp, and eventually pulled into a grassy area after a small river crossing.

We ate cold tuna, peas and mayo under the romantic glow of the Afghani search lights, and went to bed early.

Left over from Afghan war

and another!

Take your pick

Lending a hand

Suckers for a camera!

September 25th

G – Reporting

Not much to tell today we both felt worn out and so as the Pamir lodge was full tonight plus its toilets where really not nice we packed up and drove 2Km to a local hotel which was clean comfy and had an English news channel spent the rest of the day sorting pictures and watching TV.

Khorg

Top Photoshop work!

September 24th

B - reporting

We woke early...but how early? We think we have crossed a time zone, but are really not sure. After a strange breakfast of cheesy rice pudding, we headed off along the valley, towards Khorog. The road led along the Whakam valley, with Afghanistan on the other side of the river.

It all seemed very peaceful in the bright sunshine. Villagers in both countries were busy with the harvest, making pyramid-shaped haystacks, threshing corn, and doing other farm-y type things. We kept getting exciting glimpses of the Hindu Kush mountains, towering over us all snowy and majestic.

We tried to do touristy things and see an ancient fort, but true to form we couldn't find it. But the scenery was so fantastic we didn't mind.

We arrived in Khorog around 5-ish, checked into a guest house, and one of us was frightened by a gigantic spider in the loo.

Whakan Valley

He shouted Photo Photo - so we did!

Hindu Kush

Afghan Village

More Whakan Valley

September 23rd

G – Reporting

After the somewhat stressful events of the day before woke felling quite excited that they were all behind us, so after a tasty fried egg breakfast in our home stay, a quick check of email at the local intent café! (see pic) we hit the road for almost 2km before we came to a our first Tajik checkpoint which are notorious for trying to get a little money for their troubles, but not this time as usual all our details where painstakingly written in a ledger and then after a few handshakes we were on our way, nice!

To try and set the scene the Pamir Mountains which you may have not heard of are basically the very western end of the Himalayas so it’s safe to say they are big! With some very high passes, after yesterdays 4600m we crossed a couple of smaller ones and then on to the 2nd highest at 4200m celebrated with a cup of coffee (we know how to push the boat out!) the landscape is stunning if a little barren as not much grows at this height, we passed though one town mid way thought the day which I find surprising as I have no idea what they do up here?

Around 4ish the weather started to turn and it got very cloudy and very cold and as we headed down toward the Wakhan valley we came to our 2nd checkpoint of the day this time an army one, again all our details were entered in a ledger only this time it was done with an AK47 on the seat next to me then they asked for petrol and food kind of odd and not sure if this was bribe time but they both looked pretty cold and miserable so we gave a litre in an old coke bottle and some apples which they seemed very happy about and sent us on our way.

We carried on descending meeting an English and Swedish cyclists on the way so after chatting and wishing them luck and with the weather getting worse we made a B-Line for Langar, a small village at the start of the Wakhan valley and its homestay which when we arrived we found it had flushing loo and a hot shower - result.

Abandoned Truck outside home stay

Murgab Internet cafe

On the M41(Pamir Highway) Roof of the world!




September 22nd

B - reporting

Border Day! We woke early, to find ice on the inside of the windscreen, and the eastern flank of the mountains turned pink from the sunrise. After coffee and porridge, we headed for the border.

The Kyrgyz border post is not actually on the border, but about 25 km north. Leaving Kyrgyzstan was straightforward...for us. There were 3 people stranded in the border post: 2 Russian women hitchhiking, and Gary, an American man (also hitching) with serious visa problems. He had been stamped out of Tajikistan but not allowed into Kyrgyzstan (he thought he had a double entry visa, and discovered far too late there was a mistake on his visa). The Tajik border is too far to walk to (and up a mountain besides), and he now had no Tajik visa.

The Russians said they'd translate for him, with the Tajik officials, as he had to get back into the country before he could obtain a visa to leave!

So we agreed to take all 3 of them to Murgab, about 200 km into Tajikistan, the first town with any kind of traffic for hitchers. Assuming Gary was allowed in.

After a lot of fannying around we all got into our car, which only has 2 seats.

Mine and G's entry into Tajikistan was straightforward, after we understood that the man searching our car wanted souveniers from Canada. We shook the hand of a bomb disposal officer who chatted to us. And then we waited, under the blue blue sky in the thin air of this very chilly border post, while an unfeasible amount of people argued Gary's case.

We eventually took 2 Russians, 1 American, and a Tajik border official to Murgab. Not wanting to prejudice Gary's case, we gave the border official the passenger seat and I crammed into the back, on the sleeping platform, with the 3 others. All four of us reclined, our backs against the bed roll, in the manner of astronauts in a rocket. And the crappy condition of the road made it feel like we were re-entering the atmosphere. It was a looooong drive.

Murgab is a small, white town nestled in the high brown mountains under the intense blue sky. Nothing green, no grass or trees, but it had a stark beauty, all angles and silhouettes. The temperature plunged the instant the sun sank behind the western mountains, while we waited outside the cop shop to see if Gary would be free, or locked in there overnight. And then he was free! (I think money might have changed hands...)

G and I found a Homestay, shared a beer, and after a brief look up at the jewel-bright stars we crashed out.

Cold start to the day

But what a view

Heading towards the wall of mountains

Airing down the tires to cope with the bad roads

1st Pass

2nd and Highest of the trip.

At the top with our Russian hitch hikers

Room for the night.